Das MZ Forum für MZ Fahrer

hello. i have a problem at present with my light where the parklight (standlicht) and park/run positions of the main switch are putting power to the main beam and i'm wondering if this is a common thing (ignition switch)or have i perhaps got a wiring fault somewhere?

thanks for your time, glen.

G´day!
Sounds like a wiring fault to me...
Normally the forward parking light should be the 6V 5W bulb only, if the main beam lights up something went wrong...
You will find a good wiring diagram here.
Although it´s only black and white - after printing it´s very useful.
Or do you need a coloured wiring diagram like the ones in the Neuber/Mueller technical handbook?
Then I could try to scan one next week, or someone else could be even faster...
The items on the diagram are:
1) Indicator R/H
2) Indicator switch
3) Capacitor
4) Ground
5) Generator
6) Ignition cam
7) Neutral switch
8 ) Stoplight switch
9) Rear lights
10) Battery
11) Fuse box
12) regulator for the generator
13) Ignition coil
14) L/H indicator
15) Headlight switch (High/dipped, horn and flasher)
16) Headlights
17) Dipped lights
18) Parking lights
19) High beam
20) Combined ignition switch
21) Indicator flasher
22) Speedometer
23) Control lights
24) Speedometer lights
25) Horn
26) Spark plug
27) Only for ignition switch position no. 5 (Start with low battery)

Colour abbreviations:
sw=black, rt=red, gn=green, ws=white, ge=yellow, gr=grey, bl=blue, br=brown

Hope that helps you a bit.
Cheers!
Jan

Your description is not complete clear for me, yet.
Does the main beam flash only for a very short moment while switching from one to next switch position
or are park light and main beam in park-light-position both continously on?
First situation (beam flashes shortly while key is moving) is normal. The reason is the design of the contact layout in the switch housing.
Second situation is really a fault - like mentioned in the post above.

Regards
Lothar

thanks for the advice. it used to flick the beam when switching between positions as you said but as of late it stays on rather than just flicking through. i think i'll take to her with a ohm meter this weekend and see if i can find a crushed or rubbed through wire somewhere and see if perhaps the switch is giving permanent contact through carbon tracking or something. it's been fine but for the last 500 kms so i guess it was due to start giving problems of some sort eventually. not to worry.

again, thank you.

glad thats sorted. one of the spade terminals that runs power to the tacho lighting was a bit weak and was sending power through the main light connector tooas it had dropped down slightly and bridged out. one of these days i think i'll get in there and replace the lot. always something simple i suppose.

Good job!
By the way: As MZ motorcycles are rather simple machines the errors are always simple, too...
But fortunately we have got enough of these simple errors to spend our time with.
Regards

Jan

quite right there jan but the little girl has been just so damned reliable, especially since the 12v czech lima went in. went for a test ride to work and back today and all switch positions are back to their normal duties. a big relief in fact as with the relay method of ignition cutout that it now uses, any time a fuse goes she shuts down same as when you flip the switch. better for safety than having it trying to charge while some fault causes the burning out of a fuse i'll admit, but still a weird feeling to roll to a stop with your clutch in from 100 kph because a wire earths out. my dt200 will just run like a pig when the fuse blows due to the powervalve (auslass steurung) running off an electric motor, but will still get you home without stopping. not to worry now that its sorted for a while anyway.i still think it was (the MZ-b lima) the best 200 euro i could have paid for any one component on the bike.