British ES250/2
Verfasst: 6. Dezember 2021 11:29
Hi guys,
Sorry I speak in English- I don't know German very well at all (in School we didn't care for foreign languages- later in life I realise this is a regret- but children are as they are..). So I hope this is acceptable? Or I could use Google Translate or something to convert to the native preference? Please let me know.
This is my first post here, I am predominantly a user in the mzriders.com forum as the language there is defaulty English, but alas it isn't a very populous forum and indeed it does have some holes in the knowledgebase that I thought mz-forum.com can help me with.
I am the proud owner of 3x MZ's, included in my signature. Pictures wanted then they can be supplied.
I do like to travel, and have taken my 251, which was a £100 piece fit for a lake with many many problems that I eventually overcame, to Istanbul once for just one of my many holidays abroad I have had in recent years (the last two years not withstanding).
So, Fallen into my lap in July this year was an 1974 (or at least, that was when it was registered) ES250/2 Trophy. I had always wanted one for many years if indeed simply to ride and experience even for a short time. I have made a very long process of basic rejuivination of this machine here: https://mzriders.com/viewtopic.php?f=5& ... 11a6d7e403
If people want the thread copied to this forum then that is fine, but for now it was a bike in total bits and last on the road since 1983- to cut things short, I assembled it to find out what parts were missing, and In the mean time I also re-built the engine (except I did not touch the piston or barrel), with bearings and crank re-built as it had been in a flood in 2019.
The bike is together as much as it can be for the minute and I have no immediate plans to make it look 'good'. My main concerns at the minute are understanding it's problems and acting on thm accordingly and simply enjoying the bike for what it is at this stage of it's life. One day I may indeed restore the bike fully. But I haven't money at the minute with major life events (wedding and children) have taken all of my money, and somewhat also just as importantly, most of my time! So a simply bike that runs and is fairly reliable and something that I can just enjoy for now is what I want this bike to be.
Two things I have not overcome yet + 1 question:
1) the top bracket mount for the left hand side panel is missing from my bike. You can buy this piece from various suppliers in Germany, but I have a welder and a brother who can weld. If I had the dimensions and measurements I could fabricate my own. The main issue not to buy one is postage/import costs. One suck supplier of example of this item can be found here:
https://www.ost2rad.com/MZ-Spare-Parts/ ... s-250.html
2) After tracing back air leaks and for the most part (have yet to totally clarify with carb cleaner), the bike is running great.. It is slow sure, but the power and torque are linear and very comfortable and civilised, but the problem I have is getting a reliable idle on the bike.
I think this is due to the way the throttle slide works on the handlebar? I have lubricated cables and throttle assembly, but if I raise idle to a nice speed with the adjuster on the carburettor, the next stop it can be higher, what's more the speed of the engine climbs when the clutch is pulled in and can make changing gear difficult due to this high speed. So- the idle is set down a bit, and requires me to keep a hand on the throttle to make sure it doesn't die (because I think pushing the throttle forward closes to the main slide too much?) and making a rich idle. So.. alas changing gear is best whilst pushing the throttle forward in order to close the air slide? It is something I have not encountered before, is this design? And should I just get used to it? Or do I need to make more appropriate adjustments. The pilot screw on the carburettor is currently 2.5 turns.
3) Additionally, now that I think about it- the brake light (standard rear drum switch) only comes on when the engine is running. I thought this was a standard DC item and like all other bulbs on the bike this should light regardless as to whether the engine is on or not. I've checked this and get no voltage with the ignition simply on. Moreover, at lower rpm (basically when I'm simply idling), it fades away into nothing. So is the brake light indeed AC? The wiring is completely standard...
Picture of the bike taken the other night for interest
Sorry I speak in English- I don't know German very well at all (in School we didn't care for foreign languages- later in life I realise this is a regret- but children are as they are..). So I hope this is acceptable? Or I could use Google Translate or something to convert to the native preference? Please let me know.
This is my first post here, I am predominantly a user in the mzriders.com forum as the language there is defaulty English, but alas it isn't a very populous forum and indeed it does have some holes in the knowledgebase that I thought mz-forum.com can help me with.
I am the proud owner of 3x MZ's, included in my signature. Pictures wanted then they can be supplied.
I do like to travel, and have taken my 251, which was a £100 piece fit for a lake with many many problems that I eventually overcame, to Istanbul once for just one of my many holidays abroad I have had in recent years (the last two years not withstanding).
So, Fallen into my lap in July this year was an 1974 (or at least, that was when it was registered) ES250/2 Trophy. I had always wanted one for many years if indeed simply to ride and experience even for a short time. I have made a very long process of basic rejuivination of this machine here: https://mzriders.com/viewtopic.php?f=5& ... 11a6d7e403
If people want the thread copied to this forum then that is fine, but for now it was a bike in total bits and last on the road since 1983- to cut things short, I assembled it to find out what parts were missing, and In the mean time I also re-built the engine (except I did not touch the piston or barrel), with bearings and crank re-built as it had been in a flood in 2019.
The bike is together as much as it can be for the minute and I have no immediate plans to make it look 'good'. My main concerns at the minute are understanding it's problems and acting on thm accordingly and simply enjoying the bike for what it is at this stage of it's life. One day I may indeed restore the bike fully. But I haven't money at the minute with major life events (wedding and children) have taken all of my money, and somewhat also just as importantly, most of my time! So a simply bike that runs and is fairly reliable and something that I can just enjoy for now is what I want this bike to be.
Two things I have not overcome yet + 1 question:
1) the top bracket mount for the left hand side panel is missing from my bike. You can buy this piece from various suppliers in Germany, but I have a welder and a brother who can weld. If I had the dimensions and measurements I could fabricate my own. The main issue not to buy one is postage/import costs. One suck supplier of example of this item can be found here:
https://www.ost2rad.com/MZ-Spare-Parts/ ... s-250.html
2) After tracing back air leaks and for the most part (have yet to totally clarify with carb cleaner), the bike is running great.. It is slow sure, but the power and torque are linear and very comfortable and civilised, but the problem I have is getting a reliable idle on the bike.
I think this is due to the way the throttle slide works on the handlebar? I have lubricated cables and throttle assembly, but if I raise idle to a nice speed with the adjuster on the carburettor, the next stop it can be higher, what's more the speed of the engine climbs when the clutch is pulled in and can make changing gear difficult due to this high speed. So- the idle is set down a bit, and requires me to keep a hand on the throttle to make sure it doesn't die (because I think pushing the throttle forward closes to the main slide too much?) and making a rich idle. So.. alas changing gear is best whilst pushing the throttle forward in order to close the air slide? It is something I have not encountered before, is this design? And should I just get used to it? Or do I need to make more appropriate adjustments. The pilot screw on the carburettor is currently 2.5 turns.
3) Additionally, now that I think about it- the brake light (standard rear drum switch) only comes on when the engine is running. I thought this was a standard DC item and like all other bulbs on the bike this should light regardless as to whether the engine is on or not. I've checked this and get no voltage with the ignition simply on. Moreover, at lower rpm (basically when I'm simply idling), it fades away into nothing. So is the brake light indeed AC? The wiring is completely standard...
Picture of the bike taken the other night for interest