Electrical issue (Laden problem), ein dänisch ETZ 250

[NSvaneDK]

Hi everybody

I hope it is okay to write in english, as my german isn't that good anymore (I'm danish).

I have had the following problem with my newly purchased '87 ETZ 250:

- The bike didn't charge -> Cure -> the Green-blue cable from gleichricther to spannungsregler was attatched in a wrong place (at the collectorbox between regler und gleichricther).

- Then the bike charged at 2800 umd. and upwards and all was well.

- Then the ladekontrollampe blew (durchbrennt ?) And I began messing with the setting of the spannungsregler instead of replacing the LKL....

- Now the LKL is replaced and shuts off at 2500 umd. with the mechanischer spannungsregler and at 1500 umd. with a replacement digital regler.

My question is/mein frage ist: Why can't I measure anything useful, using a digital multimeter at the + and - poles on the battery with a running engine?

It shows from 2-11v and jumps about with a running engine, but with some messing about with the mechanischer regler it showed 13-14v at some points (for a short time).

Is it possible that the battery is being charged correctly and all is well, even though it cant be measured directly? I haven't touched anything else than the mechanischer regler, the wrongly attatched cable and the LKL. Oh and the carbon brushes are more than 9 mm.

I won't drive a longer test-trip until I am sure it won't decharge totally or blow fuses

You can reply in german

Thanks in advance!

Grüss Niels

[lothar]

Hi everybody

Hi Niels

- Now the LKL is replaced and shuts off at 2500 umd. with the mechanischer spannungsregler and at 1500 umd. with a replacement digital regler.

That´s not a failure, the electrical characteristic of mechanical and electronical regulators are very different.

My question is/mein frage ist: Why can't I measure anything useful, using a digital multimeter at the + and - poles on the battery with a running engine?
It shows from 2-11v and jumps about with a running engine, but with some messing about with the mechanischer regler it showed 13-14v at some points (for a short time).

The reason is there is a strong electromagnetic radiation emitted by your ETZ which influences the sensitive digital voltmeter.
To get quick results use an analogous working voltmeter. But don´t forget to look for reasons of radiation.

Download the "MZ-Elektrik" (Link here in my foot line) and see page 10 (Zappelnde Anzeige ...) for further details.

Kind regards
Lothar

[NSvaneDK]

Hi Lothar
I have downloaded your nice guidebook, and will try to find an analog tester to verify the state of things. Hopefully nothing else is wrong with it .

By the way: Does the LKL have any implication on the charging itself? IE. will the battery not be charged when the bulb is burned?

[lothar]

By the way: Does the LKL have any implication on the charging itself? IE. will the battery not be charged when the bulb is burned?

Not at all. It has only an indicator function.

[lothar]

Not at all. It has only an indicator function.

I received a hint, that this is not correct. The lamp helps to initialize the generator of the ETZ by its current.
To play safe you should apply the lamp. Otherwise I myself use a LED instead of a lamp in my own ETZ which needs only a little more
than 1/100 of the current of a lamp and I haven´t got any problems since I replaced the lamps by LEDs.

Kind regards
Lothar

PS: Thanks torbiaz for the hint!

[NSvaneDK]

Thanks again!

I'll try a testrun today, with the electronic charging relay attatched and bring the mechanical one if anything should happen. If its just not any of those thats the problem I really dont know what. All connections, fuses etc. are fine.

But i'll measure the current of the battery before and after the run which is possible with the digital multimeter.

-- Hinzugefügt: 27. August 2016 18:32 --

A run of about 30 km today with a topped up battery saw a voltage at 12,77V (ish) at the beginning, and 12,68V at the end of the trip.

It was mainly driving between 30 and 90 km/h, and rpm's mainly at 3-5000.

I think (and hope) its okay for now.

Then I need to look into the carburation or ignition, as it is a bit rough at especially lower rpm's.

So, hopefully its driving time! As the K75 isn't home at the moment and the renault 4 is in need of a bearing change

[NSvaneDK]

Hmm, with a borrowed professional multimeter, the voltage is stable but with increasing rpm it just sits at 12,58V ... Now I really dont know what to try.

*Edit* That was with the electronic regulator. With the electro-mechanic attached (and half an hour of adjustment), the LKL now turns off at 2000 rpm, it charges with 14,2V with the lights turned off between 2500 and 3500 rpm, and charges 13,4-13,9 with the lights turned on.

I really dont know if the electronic regulator is just garbage (its from a polish firm, made in china) or if it works in another way. As I used a nearly charged battery the regulator might only kick in when the general voltage drops, instead of charging away linearly as the mechanic regulator does?

The chargelight turns off in either case, so I'll keep the new regulator as backup.

[lothar]

I really dont know if the electronic regulator is just garbage (its from a polish firm, made in china) or if it works in another way.

Can you, please, show us some photos from the used electronic regulator?
How did you connect it (a scanned hand made scheme is sufficient).

If you have applied it right and the voltage stays too small, see MZ-Elektrik page 133 (b)
Some simple methods have been described there to change it.

Regards
Lothar