Regulator/Rectifier Fuse Protection & Battery Charge Monitor

[Donny]

I saw this topic on the MZ Forum der MZ & Rotaxfreunde Mitteldeutschland. This is good protection for the Ignition controller and recitfier and makes perfect sense. I think this is good and I like. This fuse is also used in many autos. Has anyone done this on your Rotax? Recommendation? It will save $$ if a amperage surge should happen.

http://www.tinten-ass.de/forum/wbb2/thr ... hreadid=66

Danke, Donny

[lothar]

I saw this topic on the MZ Forum der MZ & Rotaxfreunde Mitteldeutschland. This is good protection for the Ignition controller and recitfier and makes perfect sense. I think this is good and I like. This fuse is also used in many autos. Has anyone done this on your Rotax? Recommendation? It will save $$ if a amperage surge should happen.
http://www.tinten-ass.de/forum/wbb2/thr ... hreadid=66
Danke, Donny

Hi Donny, you are right. This fuse is -without any doubt - an useful addition to protect your
regulator/rectifier. By the way, the source of this hint you will find in this forum - look here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2103&hilit=rotax+sicherung&start=4

But note: in case the fuse breaks you won´t get any information while driving because your ignition works
complete idependently from your ´power station´. Also if the battery charge comes to zero your engine
runs perfectly. To avoid this unpleasant situation I recommend to add a lamp at the cockpit which shows
you the correct battery charging. See here:
http://pic.mz-forum.com/lothar/ELEKTRIK/Rotax-LKL.htm

Regards
Lothar

[Berni]

Indeed the additional fuse is a must-have for the Rotax driver. I retrofit each MZ 500 which enters my garage with such a fuse.
Off course Lothars solution with indication is the dot on the i.

[Martin H.]

Has anyone done this on your Rotax?

Hello Donny,
as Lothar already mentioned, it was first recommended it in our forum. So I did this in my Silverstar, as you can see here.
Regards, Martin.

[Donny]

Thanks very much for the replies Lothar, Berni and Martin. I went through the thread detailing the indicator lamp. Brilliant! Most of the pictures are gone from the thread but since I have Lothar's schematic it will be no problem. I'll build and encapsulate in a small enclosure, and it should all fit into the headlamp shell okay. MZ should have done this at the factory - at least adding the 16A fuse on the rectifier. But they could not sell more not spare regulator / rectifier parts by adding the protection fuse I'm sure. : Mrgreen:

EDIT: I have a problem with the translator - what does "Lima" mean? Thanks

[Guesi]

[quote="EDIT: I have a problem with the translator - what does "Lima" mean? Thanks[/quote]

Lima means
LIcht
MAschine

which means alternator

GüSi

[Donny]

Lima = Alternator. Okay, makes sense now.

I installed the fuse (used a 15A; I had no 16A). I dropped the fuse holder down next to the original fuse box so I do not have to remove the seat to change it. So, if this regulator/rectifier fuse blows, the engine will still run okay, but the battery will not charge, and will eventually die under load, correct? Danke for the help all, Donny

[Donny]

[quote = "lothar"]But note: in case the fuse breaks you will not get any information while driving because your ignition works complete idependently from your 'power station'. So if the battery charge comes to zero your engine runs perfectly. To avoid this unpleasant situation I recommend to add a lamp at the cockpit which shows you the correct battery charging. Regards
Lothar [/ quote]

Danke Lothar. I agree with add a lamp to the cockpit is necessary. I have looked and can not find. Can you provide a picture of how/where you added the lamp location?

And congrats on the successful forum relocation. Works fine.

[Berni]

Based on Lothars circuit diagram I built some of these alternator control lamps a couple of years ago:


A small box from my wife (don't know what kind of box, maybe an old film box), all electronic
components on a pcb, 2 wires, the box encapsulated with epoxy, a fixing nut on the backside
and voila - here we are.


At a tripping point of 13,2 volts the LED goes out and indicates charging of the battery.
In real life we figured out that this point is a little bit to high, but with a battery in good
condition it works fine. After testing it on my ex-police MZ 500 R I retrofitted all my Silverstars
with the controll indication. Unfortunately I "manufactured" only a small prototype series of 20 peaces
and I don't have any more.

[Donny]

Thanks Berni. I think I'm going to get this one: http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/huvm.asp

It's a single LED charge indicator that I can mount next to the ignition switch into a drilled hole. The module will mount in the head lamp shell and I can pick up IGN switched voltage in there too. For what it costs, I doubt I could build my own for less $$.

[Berni]

Good solution, Donny!

[Donny]

I wired in the Signal Dynamics 1050 battery monitor today and it works great. The module and wiring is all in the headlamp shell (parking lamp circuit for 12V ignition and ground). I mounted the LED on the fork next to the ignition switch. The LED shows:

Flashing GREEN - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC
Steady GREEN - Above 12.9 VDC
Steady YELLOW - Above 12.6 VDC
Steady Red - Above 12.1 VDC
Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC

Nice steady GREEN when driving. Good modification and thanks for the idea! The picture looks like YELLOW but it is GREEN.